Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Many ways to skin a cat...

There is no place where the old adage applies more than with furniture refinishing.  With the myriad of wood finishing supplies available there are many different directions to go and there isn't really a right or wrong way.  Ultimately it comes down to what the goal is for the final product.

One of the things that gives mid mod furniture value is the materials that were used.  In today's affordable furniture you rarely find real walnut or teak or mahogany.  Lower grade materials are used and stained or colored to look more like nicer materials.

That said, because mid century furniture was generally produced in a production environment, the original process used wasn't always the process that did the most to highlight the material quality.  Manufacturers have to make concessions to control the speed which they are able to finish the pieces.
Their process also has to mask material variations and quality issues.  A nightstand made on monday much match a dresser made on friday from a different batch of materials.  Finally, their process must reflect the desire of the marketplace.  For example, I'm not sure why dark brown "wormwood" finishes were popular in the '70s but many of the manufacturers did it.

One of the foundations of modern design philosophy is to celebrate the materials used.  The simple, straight lines of modern design tends to put the focus on the materials.  Often in modern architecture things like concrete walls and wood or steel beams are used as a design element rather than covered up.  I try to adhere to the same philosophy in refinishing.

The process I use for most pieces does not involve stains, dyes or toners.  Rosewood, teak and walnut are all beautiful materials on their own and staining covers that up.  The process I use is one that custom furniture makers and acknowledged finishing masters like Sam Maloof and Bob Flexner profess.  It requires complete stripping of the piece and more meticulous prep as there isn't a stain to help hide imperfections.  Each coat of finish gets a different formulation.  The finishing masters also suggest to think of finishing pieces "in terms of weeks, not hours or days".  It is not a finish that is well suited for a production environment where manufacturers need to minimize the time pieces spend in the finishing department.  But for maximizing the potential beauty of the wood and giving a smooth feel to the hand, it is difficult to surpass.

Many of the vintage furniture refinishers and resellers are trying to repair or cover up blemishes incurred in the 50 or so years these pieces have been around.  They often only refinish a top or parts that show obvious damage.  In some cases it is easier to paint parts and alter the design intent.  Again, it isn't a wrong way to do it if your intent is to get the piece back out the door quickly.  My goal is to make these pieces shine in a way they perhaps never did by honoring the materials.  It is a more meticulous and time consuming process but it shows in the end result.



5 comments:

  1. Hi there,
    How can we find out what pieces you have for sale? Your method of refinishing and bringing the original piece to life is no less than magical. Honestly. I am in awe.

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  2. Hi Michelle! I'm sorry your comments were not responded to for so long. I've been remodeling a bathroom and have put aside the furniture (and blog) for the last couple of months. I'm just finishing up the bathroom and will be getting back to furniture soon. As for what is currently available, the Lane Cubist dressers and Pearsall inspired gondola chair are available. If the post description has a price listed in it, it is available. I'll try to make that more clear in the posts. You are welcome to contact me directly by phone or text at the number on the top of my page. Matt

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  3. Hi Matt,
    Must say your furniture refinishing is the best I have ever seen. I collect and refinish Bissman solid walnut furniture. You comment that you don't stain your pieces but after stripping your finish them. I currently stain my pieces but after seeing your work I would like change that. I know you are a professional but was wondering if you mighty share your technique as I think it is the perfect way to as you say " honor the material " and also the craftsmanship. Would you be open to talking about your technique ?
    thanks,

    chris shinn

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  4. Hi Chris! Thanks for the kind words. Before your comment I wasn't familiar with Bissman furniture. The designs are reminiscent of some of Heywood Wakefield's stuff but the fact they are made of solid walnut puts them leaps and bounds above HW (in my book at least). Being made of solid walnut also would make them much more forgiving to repair, not having to be concerned with veneer repairs.
    I've been debating whether or not to discuss specifics of my process and not sure I'm ready to talk about a lot of the details. One, as I'm selling these pieces it is one of the things I use to differentiate my stuff from others in the area who also resell and sometimes refinish vintage furniture.
    Two, one of the components that I use in my finish is no longer readily available. Not that there aren't reasonable substitutes but it is a product that I really like and actually recently bought out the local retailer's supply because I'm not sure I'll find it again.
    Three, most of what I've learned is through a lot of informal "study" of finishing. I didn't go to a super secret wood finishing school or have a Yoda of wood finishing tutor me. It was mostly through hours of reading on the web about wood prepping techniques, about different types of finishes and how they are applied, what the store bought finishes really are and some of the chemistry involved and ultimately through practice and trial and error.
    I will say what I do is not a process that I developed nor does it take specialized equipment. It is actually a more "old school" or traditional technique. And, what sets apart many extraordinary things from ordinary is paying attention to details. Prep, sanding, cleaning, etc are all important especially when it comes to doing a "clear" finish.
    Much of my information came from reading various workworking forums as well as guitar building/finishing forums and gun stock finishing. Bob Flexner is a guru in wood finishing and has published a number of books and is often referred to in these web discussions.
    I may be willing to give tips and more detail privately so contact me directly if you want to discuss further.

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  5. Matt. Thanks for the honest reply. I don't resale my furniture so no competition as if I could. I will be in touch and thanks. I know you came about your expertise the old fashioned way. You earned it.
    chris

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